Day 24: Portland, Cape Bridgewater

A slow start today. As it appears we have unlimited Internet here (yey!), I spent the morning backing up photos to the cloud and downloading some TV programs our Myth had recorded at home.

We also did some research on the Great Ocean Road and have decided on a plan of attack. We’ll drive the caravan to a park close to the 12 Apostles tomorrow. I want to try to capture the 12 apostles at sunset as that will have the best light. On Sat we’ll head to Apollo Bay for at least three days and use that as a base for exploring the Otways.

We had some local fish and chips for lunch (which was disappointing) then ventured to Cape Bridgewater, the Blowhole and the fossilized forest.

Cape Bridgewater is excellent! It’s a large bay west of Portland with pristine clear water and an immaculate beach. We found a road called Panorama Drive that we figured would show us a great overview of the cape, and we were right! We did find a caravan park here, but quickly discounted it because it only had 3 starts on Wikicamps (we try to look for 4+) and there is no mobile reception.

Cape Bridgewater

I’m still amazed at how often when we go places, there is almost no one else there. I’m sure it would be different in peak times, but when we went past, there was only one group on that whole beach, and only one other car at the blowhole.

The sea at the Blowhole was ferocious – waves pounding on the cliff rocks relentlessly. We think we must have been there at the wrong tide level because we didn’t see a blow hole per se – just sprays of water generated by the rock face. Still pretty impressive though.

The Blowhole

Teresa walked back to the car after that, but I walked across the cliff a bit to the petrified forest. These are rocks that look like tree trunks, but were actually formed by limestone and millions of years of water erosion.

We visited at the wrong time of day for photos – midday. This was the best I took:

Petrified Forest

A final highlight of this area was the wind farm right on the coast. We passed through the Cape Bridgewater wind farm which consists of 29, 2MW windmills. Neither Teresa or I had gotten this close to windmills before, and it was quite impressive driving up to these massive beasts.

Cape Bridgewater Wind Farm

Windmills up close with Teresa and Leo in the foreground for scale

We then headed back to town and filled the car for our trip tomorrow. Tiny isn’t too bad with fuel economy – we have driven over 600km on one tank towing the caravan since our last fill up in Victor Harbor. That’s 20km/l on windy days.

Back at the caravan park, I tried to keep downloading more shows, but unfortunately they’d fixed their login system, so we were back to the 500mb limit. Fine for regular browsing, but not for TV shows.

Teresa was feeling dizzy so we had a quiet evening. Tomorrow, we plan to see the 12 Apostles and stay our first night in a Reserve and not a caravan park. Of course, I’ll let you know how it goes!

Day 23: Robe to Portland

The main thing we noticed today was how much worse the roads are in Victoria than South Australia. Almost as soon as we crossed the border, we were running over potholes and badly completed patches.

But I’m getting ahead of myself.

We awoke to an overcast day. The caravan park is close to town, so I took Leo for a walk along the main strip. As well as the usual gift shops, post office etc, I walked past four cafes, all open at 8am in the morning and all with customers. I can just imagine how busy they would be in peak time.

I didn’t go in for breakfast, as checkout time for the park was 10am. On past experience, we’ve left the park either just before, or just after the 10am time, and we didn’t want to make it any later.

We’re continuing our drive home today, and plan to head to Portland. Originally we were going to travel to Mount Gambier and stay there, but as Mt Gambier is only 1.5 hours away, and Portland is 3, we figured we’d prefer more time in the car on one day and one less setup/packup of the van.

Maybe we are getting better at it, or maybe it’s because we didn’t unpack much last night, but we were on our way at 9:30am heading to Mount Gambier.

On the way, we passed a lot of tree plantations all in various stages of growth. I remember seeing a lot of those when we last came to this area for Databook.

We arrived around 11am and decided to stop for a while and grab some lunch at a bakery. After driving slowly through the town looking for one, I thought it might be easier to search online. I found this amazing little bakery really close to us called the Wehl St Homestyle Bakery. I figured It must be good because it wasn’t in a main street, and was set back from the road so had no street frontage. If they weren’t any good, they would not have survived.

I bought a shepherds pie with bacon and it was delicious! The also had some cinnamon doughnuts with custard in the middle that I also needed to try (also delicious). Teresa ate the rest of the prosciutto sandwich from yesterday. Again, it was great to stop the car, open the caravan and comfortably sit to have lunch.

Portland

After lunch, we finished the trip to Portland returning to our home state in the process (yey!) and losing 1/2 hour because of the time zone change.

I don’t remember much of Portland from last time I was here (Databook again), but I do remember the large port and parks along the shore. Both were still here, and the caravan park we selected is in the middle of town and close to the shore.

It was almost empty – the park owner even said “You can even park over two sites if you like”. We chose a spot away from the amenities and with a partial view, and rested the rest of the afternoon. After two solid days driving, we were both quite tired.

At 5pm I thought I’d take a look at the beach, and took Leo along for the walk. At the park, we are on the top of a 25 meter cliff. There is a road on one side, and a park on two sides. There is a well constructed set of stairs (which Leo loved running down) down to the beach. From the number of dogs on the beach when we got there, it seems as if this beach is Portland’s dog walking beach. I’m not surprised it is… with a cliff, rocks, and the ocean bordering three sides, and the information center on the fourth, it’s a really safe place to let dogs off their leash and know they won’t be hit by cars.

Just before dusk, two cars arrived – one towing a caravan and the other a trailer that converts into a tent. Although there are plenty of empty sites available, they proceeded to setup right next to our site. Maybe they were trying to get the same view we were. Looks like 2 grandparents, 2 parents and 4 kids aged from 1 to 8. Teresa and I were a little miffed they setup right next door. I wonder if we’re turning into old fogeys? Other than some noise setting up, they have been relatively quiet, so all good. They just stole our view.

We had a healthy dinner of pork (the leftover from our anniversary meal in the Barossa) and salad and retired early.

We’ll take a look around Portland tomorrow and probably take the caravan to Warrnambool on Friday.